Hate it when that happens.  It's good to keep a string mop, wet vac, and old towels for such occasions.  You've gotten good advice so far.  Consider replacing it yourself.

(October 19, 2021 at 1:59 pm)Spongebob Wrote: This is not a good situation.  First of all, that heater should be on it's on circuit, and I would definitely turn it off.  Here's the good news.  You can turn off the circuit just long enough to remove both of the heating elements (I assume there are two), then safely turn the breaker back on.  It will require a wrench that is made specifically for that, but they are not expensive.

Now on to the leak.  You are going to have to replace that tank.  The likely cause is a buildup of scale and if its bad enough to burst, then it's done.  But here's the good news.  If you are any good with tools, you can easily replace it yourself or with the help of a friend.  You can buy a new one at any home store, haul it home or get it delivered, remove the old one and install the new one.  It'll take an afternoon but you'll save a couple hundies.  If you are unsure, just Google the procedure for replacing a water heater.  It's really not that hard.

Also, I would go ahead and replace your pressure relief valve.  That should have opened up to relive the pressure.  It sounds like it didn't, which suggests that its bad.

Now, after you've replaced it, I would recommend you get an electrician and get that thing on it's own breaker.

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(October 19, 2021 at 1:56 pm)vulcanlogician Wrote: Thanks for the advice, everyone. It's electric. The thing is shot, so I'm not worried about the elements burning out or anything.

I turned on the breaker to make some food and turned it back off again. I'm not gonna worry too much about it. I'll just turn the breaker on when I need the stove, and turn it off afterward. If anything, just to not use electricity I don't need. Glad there's no safety issue.

As for a replacement, I just want something that heats water and won't break the bank. This shit is expensive!

That's some janky electrical you've got there.  Your stove should be on it's own breaker as well.  All big appliances should have their own breaker.

You ain't seen janky til you seen my house...

Originally a whopping 30 amp service... A whole 2 glass fuses. A combination of individual wire and tar braid casing. Wired in 1939 by a high school student.

I have redone it - 400 amp service into the garage - then the house is a 100 amp sub-panel - and the kitchen, bath and utility room is a 100 amp sub- sub panel.

The barn and outbuildings are a separate sub- panel from the garage.

At least now we can run the air conditioner and the microwave at the same time.

(October 19, 2021 at 1:59 pm)Spongebob Wrote: That's some janky electrical you've got there.  Your stove should be on it's own breaker as well.  All big appliances should have their own breaker.

It kind of does have its own beaker, but in the breaker box, the switches are "doubled up" (connected by a piece of plastic). I can't switch the one without switching the other as well.

I might try to install the thing myself. It'd be a learning experience for sure, as I'm not all that handy. But it may also be a financial necessity. I've looked up guides online, and it doesn't seem incredibly difficult.

(October 19, 2021 at 2:28 pm)onlinebiker Wrote: You ain't seen janky til you seen my house...

Originally a whopping 30 amp service... A whole 2 glass fuses. A combination of individual wire and tar braid casing. Wired in 1939 by a high school student.

I have redone it - 400 amp service into the garage - then the house is a 100 amp sub-panel - and the kitchen, bath and utility room is a 100 amp sub- sub panel.

The barn and outbuildings are a separate sub- panel from the garage.

At least now we can run the air conditioner and the microwave at the same time.

Yeah that's a problem with lots of older construction.  Electrical codes are much better these days.  I know it gets on some people's nerves having to "meet code" and all but it really does help prevent house fires, especially with the addition of GFCIs and AFCIs.  A relatively new home burned in our town last year.  It was only 10 years old.  FD determined it was bad wiring to the oven/stove which caused an arc flash.  I'm assuming they didn't have an AFCI or that wouldn't have happened.

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(October 19, 2021 at 2:35 pm)vulcanlogician Wrote:

(October 19, 2021 at 1:59 pm)Spongebob Wrote: That's some janky electrical you've got there.  Your stove should be on it's own breaker as well.  All big appliances should have their own breaker.

It kind of does have its own beaker, but in the breaker box, the switches are "doubled up" (connected by a piece of plastic). I can't switch the one without switching the other as well.

I might try to install the thing myself. It'd be a learning experience for sure, as I'm not all that handy. But it may also be a financial necessity. I've looked up guides online, and it doesn't seem incredibly difficult.

That a double poll breaker that services appliances using 240V.  It's a single breaker that connects to both "hot" supplies from the transformer.  Each wire is 120V, so the "skinny" breakers are only 120; the fat ones are 240.  Each big appliance should have it's own 240 breaker and I recommend and AFCI breaker.  It is designed to detect arc flashes and shut off power before it causes a fire.

(October 19, 2021 at 2:09 pm)Spongebob Wrote:

(October 19, 2021 at 2:04 pm)BrianSoddingBoru4 Wrote: Not sure why you suggested he replace the valve. That’s kind of like replacing the wing mirror on a car you’re selling for scrap.

Boru

On my system the valve is separate from the tank.

That explains it!

Boru

(October 19, 2021 at 2:35 pm)vulcanlogician Wrote:

(October 19, 2021 at 1:59 pm)Spongebob Wrote: That's some janky electrical you've got there.  Your stove should be on it's own breaker as well.  All big appliances should have their own breaker.

It kind of does have its own beaker, but in the breaker box, the switches are "doubled up" (connected by a piece of plastic). I can't switch the one without switching the other as well.

I might try to install the thing myself. It'd be a learning experience for sure, as I'm not all that handy. But it may also be a financial necessity. I've looked up guides online, and it doesn't seem incredibly difficult.

Channel Archimedes and Franklin at the same time, you should be golden.

Hit it with a hammer.

Leave no witnesses.

When it comes to the mechanics of a house, especially the interaction of electricity, it is always best to turn off the main breaker switch which cuts off all electricity to the house. But that does not mean that the novice should tinker with anything, it just means you won't get electrocuted when the power is out.

In every breaker box, there are normally a larger double switch, or main switch, that shuts down power to the entire unit. If that main master switch is off, there will be no power to the entire unit it serves. That still does not mean you should do your own repair work. It only means you can prevent yourself from being killed if power goes out.

(October 19, 2021 at 12:48 pm)vulcanlogician Wrote: So, my water heater busted open at the seam and water was going everywhere. I turned off the valve and the leaking has stopped.

I'm going to call a plumber come in a few days (when I can scrape up the $$$) to replace the heater. But I'm gonna be using just cold water until then.

Anyway, here's the issue/question: There is no "off" switch on the hot water tank that I can find. I can turn the breaker off, but that also turns off half the appliances in my kitchen, including the oven. Is it okay to leave the hot water tank's power on? That would be much more convenient, especially considering I need to the stove to take a hot bath.

Is it dangerous to have the power on with the tank busted open? (It's off now.)

I've had problems with my hot water over the years ( I have a mains pressure storage heater) The heater has its own connection to the power board so can be turned off at the main power board.. The heater  also has its own water pipe which can also be turned off.   I guess things are different in your country. Ask a plumber if you're not sure.  From what you've said it probably won't matter.

The house I'm in now is the fourth I've actually owned (sequentially).  I've had to replace the water heater in every house, twice in this one.  It's annoying and expensive. The last one lasted over 20 years but was gravity fed. (in the roof cavity; low pressure) Traditionally, mains pressure systems here last half of that. Here in South Australia we have notoriously hard water which stuffs up all kinds of things.

(October 19, 2021 at 4:56 pm)Brian37 Wrote: When it comes to the mechanics of a house, especially the interaction of electricity, it is always best to turn off the main breaker switch which cuts off all electricity to the house. But that does not mean that the novice should tinker with anything, it just means you won't get electrocuted when the power is out.

In every breaker box, there are normally a larger double switch, or main switch, that shuts down power to the entire unit. If that main master switch is off, there will be no power to the entire unit it serves. That still does not mean you should do your own repair work. It only means you can prevent yourself from being killed if power goes out.

Noooo, don't do that!!  You don't need to shut off the main source just to work on an individual appliance.  Just shut off the breaker for that appliance and there will be zero potential for that device and the wires that feed it.  Shutting off the main breaker won't make it any more safe unless you plan to work on something else.  AND, you should always test any circuit with a volt meter before disconnecting any wires, just in case you missed something.  Do you shut off your main water valve just to fix a single faucet that has its on isolation valve?