(January 17, 2015 at 7:29 pm)Alice Wrote:

Article Wrote:Their assault was widely criticized by those in the climbing community who preferred a quieter, more minimalist ascent. Royal Robbins, a rival of Harding’s, went up the Dawn Wall and cut many of the bolts sprinkled up the rock.

WHAT IN THE ACTUAL FUCK?!

I don't know what the state of things is in the sport today, but when I climbed, there was a lot of controversy over whether or not it was ethical to place permanent anchors, and whether they should be removed if you found one.

The group I climbed with subscribed to the notion that if there were no permanent anchors placed, then you should not place any, and if there were, you should leave them in place - because removing them only encouraged people to place more.

Then again, we could afford such ethics as we climbed more moderate, established routes.

(January 17, 2015 at 7:37 pm)Cthulhu Dreaming Wrote:

(January 17, 2015 at 7:29 pm)Alice Wrote: WHAT IN THE ACTUAL FUCK?!

I don't know what the state of things is in the sport today, but when I climbed, there was a lot of controversy over whether or not it was ethical to place permanent anchors, and whether they should be removed if you found one.

The group I climbed with subscribed to the notion that if there were no permanent anchors placed, then you should not place any, and if there were, you should leave them in place - because removing them only encouraged people to place more.

Then again, we could afford such ethics as we climbed more moderate, established routes.

That stuff is quieted somewhat. I think that article actually was referring to the original aid ascent (different and waaaay easier way of climbing) of the Dawn wall, back when people were more critical of bolts. People sometimes have a crazy idea of restrictions that should be placed on climbing. In the 60s in Yosemite there was a brief ban on rock climbing because they said it created a traffic hazard for tourists watching. I've been reading some criticism recently that says climbing isn't an appropriate use of national parks. WTF??? John Muir was a mountaineer. The grounds for the national parks system was literally created by a mountaineer in Yosemite. Most Atheists are of the 'do what the fuck you want with your life' philosophy. I think the people who say there is one appropriate way to live are the ones most likely to think there is something wrong with climbing.

(January 17, 2015 at 6:32 pm)Cthulhu Dreaming Wrote:

(January 17, 2015 at 6:25 pm)CapnAwesome Wrote: It's way more than just having a single pitch of that length.

It is, yes.

Beyond that, back when I climbed, two decades ago, if I recall correctly, single pitches of 5.14 were thought to be practically impossible. My recollection may be off, though.

Now 5.15c is the higher level climbed... But 5.15b 5.15c climbers who are climbing this level are so rare that it's difficult to really know what is the higher level human being can climb.

My best level was 5.11 b/c but if you want to go higher you must like to suffer.
endorphines and fear are druggs.