For me, probably at least half a dozen times while surfing.
Multiple wave hold downs on big days are a pretty regular occurrence. And then, finally making it to the surface, only to find a foot of sea foam that has to be cleared before taking a breath. And Neptune help you if you forget to clear it.
Caught in a whirlpool against the cliffs at an obscure surf spot on Kauai. Couldn't break free, and was quickly fatiguing. Some freak side wave came and pretty much ejected me onto the rocks. Where I still had to scale a very steep cliff to get back to my car.
Driving back to LA at 3:00 in the morning from a surf trip in the Big Sur area. Almost no sleep, all the while having lack of sleep hallucinations. A shadow would fall across my windshield, and I would think there was a tree right in the middle of Highway 1. I finally pulled over in Santa Barbara county to sleep on the side of the road. To this day, I can't believe I did not wreck us, or drive into oncoming traffic.
Multiple wave hold downs on big days are a pretty regular occurrence. And then, finally making it to the surface, only to find a foot of sea foam that has to be cleared before taking a breath. And Neptune help you if you forget to clear it.
Caught in a whirlpool against the cliffs at an obscure surf spot on Kauai. Couldn't break free, and was quickly fatiguing. Some freak side wave came and pretty much ejected me onto the rocks. Where I still had to scale a very steep cliff to get back to my car.
Driving back to LA at 3:00 in the morning from a surf trip in the Big Sur area. Almost no sleep, all the while having lack of sleep hallucinations. A shadow would fall across my windshield, and I would think there was a tree right in the middle of Highway 1. I finally pulled over in Santa Barbara county to sleep on the side of the road. To this day, I can't believe I did not wreck us, or drive into oncoming traffic.
You'd believe if you just opened your heart" is a terrible argument for religion. It's basically saying, "If you bias yourself enough, you can convince yourself that this is true." If religion were true, people wouldn't need faith to believe it -- it would be supported by good evidence.
