Hardest Rock Climb in the world conquered.

[CapnAwesome]

WHAT IN THE ACTUAL FUCK?!

I don't know what the state of things is in the sport today, but when I climbed, there was a lot of controversy over whether or not it was ethical to place permanent anchors, and whether they should be removed if you found one.

The group I climbed with subscribed to the notion that if there were no permanent anchors placed, then you should not place any, and if there were, you should leave them in place - because removing them only encouraged people to place more.

Then again, we could afford such ethics as we climbed more moderate, established routes.

That stuff is quieted somewhat. I think that article actually was referring to the original aid ascent (different and waaaay easier way of climbing) of the Dawn wall, back when people were more critical of bolts. People sometimes have a crazy idea of restrictions that should be placed on climbing. In the 60s in Yosemite there was a brief ban on rock climbing because they said it created a traffic hazard for tourists watching. I've been reading some criticism recently that says climbing isn't an appropriate use of national parks. WTF??? John Muir was a mountaineer. The grounds for the national parks system was literally created by a mountaineer in Yosemite. Most Atheists are of the 'do what the fuck you want with your life' philosophy. I think the people who say there is one appropriate way to live are the ones most likely to think there is something wrong with climbing.