I scrolled all the way to the bottom, and there was a drop down where I could change to "old atheist forum" theme to get rid of all the white. All that white hurt my eyes too!
...it is common knowledge that the upper third, centered in Flagstaff, is Alta Arizona; the lower third, centered in Tucson, is Baja Arizona; and the middle third, centered in Phoenix, is Caca Arizona. Simple as ABC...
http://www.bandersnatch.com/bajaz.htm
http://www.bandersnatch.com/bajaz.htm