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Yep... I have to agree with AFT's advice. Check those things and see where that leads you. It might end up that you'll find the issue and be able to fix it relatively cheap.
As for the Suby... listen to your gut. Weigh the pros and cons, the cost of having to fix what you have been told is wrong and consider the possibility that there "might" be more wrong with it that you weren't told.
I purchased a vehicle back in Oct 2013. I only got it because with four kids, my malibu doesn't have enough seats for six people. Five months into owning the mini submarine, the motor blew when a rod shot through the engine. Needless to say this was something that I refused to fix, given I had only had the vehicle five months and the dealership should have told me there was an issue. The dealership is shady as fuck and has been reported by several people to the BBB. Wish I had done my homework before I spent $2500 into a truck I'd never have for long.
Anyway, yeah, just really listen to your gut. Your instincts on that are usually never wrong.
Disclaimer: I am only responsible for what I say, not what you choose to understand.
(November 14, 2018 at 8:57 pm)The Valkyrie Wrote: Have a good day at work. If we ever meet in a professional setting, let me answer your question now. Yes, I DO want fries with that.
You guys have access to super cheap cars and complain?!
FUCK!!!
$2500 for a truck that seats 6?! GODDAMN! I'd have to cough up at least 15k€ for something like that around here... well... something not too old (< 4 years).
Old cars are always troublesome to keep. Might as well sell it for scrap and get something new...ish.
My Seat Ibiza 1.2 gasoline cost me, back in 2009, brand new, 15k€.... 4 years later, it was "still" worth 7k€. 7k€ for a 4 year old car with a weak engine! Where in the world do you get that?!
A few years back, I saw an ad in the UK... they were selling a 6 year old Jaguar (can't remember the actual model), but they were asking a paltry 6k£!! DAMN! If the steering wasn't on the wrong side for me, I'd buy it!
rant below
Anyway, with that Ibiza, I got used to certain comforts... cruise control, parking assistance, preventing the fall when starting to move on inclined roads, instantaneous measuring of fuel consumption, as well as the trip's average fuel expenditure, power steering done right and can fit three kid's booster seats in the back.... and some expenses: ~450km per tank of gas, or 40L... which makes it drink about 8.8L/100km (26.7mpg), which is a lot.
It'll be difficult to go to some car lacking in all these things, but I've been driving my dad's car: 2008 VW Golf, 1.9 Diesel... everything's the same except for parking assistance and that fall prevention... oh and it's a bit less thirsty, averaging some 6L/100km (39mpg), coupled with cheaper diesel makes up for the extra €€€ that need to be laid down at the mechanic...
And the wife, on the other hand, wants something bigger, a 7 seater... looked into it... 15k€ at least, for a used 4 year old gasoline-drinking citroën C4 picasso... meh. Not really looking forward to spending that much money on a used car.
Yeah, poca, this is a 2005 model. I'm not into buying new cars. I like not having a payment. So I buy a late-later model, and then the trade off is that I have to maintain it, which I enjoy doing anyways.
I am leaning toward letting this deal pass. The Audi is comfortable and everything works on it. (Until it doesn't.) I am not sure I can live with the throwout bearing squealing like a bat out of hell every time I hit the clutch, and the worry of when that things gonna explode if I wait too long to fix it.
"There remain four irreducible objections to religious faith: that it wholly misrepresents the origins of man and the cosmos, that because of this original error it manages to combine the maximum servility with the maximum of solipsism, that it is both the result and the cause of dangerous sexual repression, and that it is ultimately grounded on wish-thinking." ~Christopher Hitchens, god is not Great
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(April 23, 2015 at 5:23 am)pocaracas Wrote: You guys have access to super cheap cars and complain?!
FUCK!!!
$2500 for a truck that seats 6?! GODDAMN! I'd have to cough up at least 15k€ for something like that around here... well... something not too old (< 4 years).
Old cars are always troublesome to keep. Might as well sell it for scrap and get something new...ish.
Let me clarify... it was a 16 year old Expedition with nearly 200,000 miles on it and I wasn't finished paying it off. Total price on it, used, was going to cost me nearly $6000. The $2500 was what I had paid into it, up to that point. Pissed because the dealership (one of those buy here pay here places) sold me a piece of crap that only lasted five months before I told them to come and get it. This was after they refused to even help me fix the problem. When they came to get it, they actually had the nerve to ask me if they could keep the tag on it to drive it back to their shop. I said Hell No. I took my tag off right away. They tried starting it and it made a hella noise. I said, you be better off towing it as it's not going to make it with that engine.
Oh well. Not my circus, not my monkeys.
Disclaimer: I am only responsible for what I say, not what you choose to understand.
(November 14, 2018 at 8:57 pm)The Valkyrie Wrote: Have a good day at work. If we ever meet in a professional setting, let me answer your question now. Yes, I DO want fries with that.
SC,
You got some good advise about finding the current draw by pulling fuses.
Pull one of the battery terminals and put a meter set on DC voltage across the free cable to the connected cable on the battery.
. The clock will draw a tiny bit of current. A big draw should show up.
Then you can pull fuses one at a time and view the meter.
I am assuming your alternator is OK and it is not charging over 14 or so volts when the engine is running.
If you still can't find It, and want to keep the car (and keep from pulling out your hair), you could get a battery disconnect switch that is used in drag racing, wire it up to interrupt the cables to the battery & mount it somewhere convenient- switch the battery off when you are not using the car.
It makes a dandy anti-theft item too.
April 23, 2015 at 8:09 am (This post was last modified: April 23, 2015 at 8:10 am by TubbyTubby.)
(April 23, 2015 at 8:01 am)professor Wrote: Pull one of the battery terminals and put a meter set on DC voltage across the free cable to the connected cable on the battery.
Meter set to measure DC current not voltage if you are placing it in circuit.
A clamp meter would be easier if you can get hold of one.
(April 23, 2015 at 8:01 am)professor Wrote: Pull one of the battery terminals and put a meter set on DC voltage across the free cable to the connected cable on the battery.
Meter set to measure DC current not voltage if you are placing it in circuit.
A clamp meter would be easier if you can get hold of one.
Right... the DC voltage across that will pretty much be the voltage of the battery without load.
The fool hath said in his heart, There is a God. They are corrupt, they have done abominable works, there is none that doeth good.
(April 23, 2015 at 8:27 am)Alex K Wrote: Right... the DC voltage across that will pretty much be the voltage of the battery without load.
It wouldn't measure anything if you had the meter probes between the disconnected wire and the terminal it was connected to. I'm sure he meant put it in series and measure amps instead of volts across the battery.
